Surviving
Emergency Fire Starter
(Misc.) SE
Emergency Fire Starter
Size: 2 3/4" long
Ultra lightweight: 0.6 ounces
Price:
$7.64
$1.50
Answers
do it ur life its more important that going to jail .but why did u take all that money to the artic by the way .will u share if ni rescue u. plz send me ur cordanates i see what i can do but make sure to not burn all the money
Is there a minimum magnification level you need to start a fire? I don't want glass because it might break.
I already have 2 other fire starting tools: A "Strike Force" http://www.survivaltopics.com/survival/s trike-force-fire-starter/ and a regular Bic lighter.
I figure the more options I give myself, the better.
I carry a fresnel lens - the flat, flexible sheet that is carved up to magnify. These are virtually indestructible and available all over the place. Office supply stores carry various sizes as baby boomers get older and their eyes start to go.
I carry one in my wallet, very similar to the one in the link below. These also were the lens on the "night owl" magnifier and led light that was hawked on tv a few years back. I have one in stuck in the visor of my car for reading maps at night.
I also strongly endorse the silva compass answer above. A silva compass is a great piece of gear and well worth carrying - very durable. I'm in my 50's and still use the one I carried as a kid
Price:
$19.99
$5.75
Government issue.
Magnesium shaving edge.
Sparking insert.
Example: If a person were to start a fire in one place and need to travel to another to make shelter, how would one keep that ember burning for hours to be re-lit at another?
you make what is called a fire bundle it is a combination of tightly packed kindling such as dry grass small twigs and if you can find it spanish moss or some bark from a paper birch you bundle it all together tightly and wrap it with some string or what ever you can find to cinch it tight stick one end in fire till it catches glow and it will hold embers for along time.
Price:
$18.76
$8.48
Waterproof storage compartment for tinder
Compact fire starter with ferrocerium rod and metal striker
Lanyard to keep product secure and together
What is the best type of wood to use if you're trying to start a fire by rubbing two sticks together, or using that drill-like bow arrangement shown on survival shows? Is a hard wood or soft wood better? If you know what kind of tree (maple, oak, pine, willow, ...) that would be even better.
You want a hardwood to use as the bearing block, to push down on the spindle. You dont want the spindle or base to be a hardwood because the little divot in the base and the spindle will become polished, literally shiny and hard, creating no friction.
The base and the spindle should be from the same tree. Something semi-hard or semi-soft depending how you look at it. To test the wood stick your thumbnail into it. If you can make a slight indent then its good.
More importantly the wood must be dry, extremely dry. Find dead branches/limbs that are off the ground. The ground tends to hold moisture and any wood on the ground will be damp.
Here are some links to wood selection and overall bow drill use:
http://www.wildwoodsurvival.com/survival /fire/bowdrill/pmoc/basicbowdrill.html
http://www.wildwoodsurvival.com/survival /fire/bowdrill/pmoc/advancedbowdrill.htm l
This will be Man vs Wild / Survivorman style in the Midwest (upstate New York). I'll have the following materials:
- 2 knives: a machette and a smaller pocket knife
- flint & magnesium
- a coffee can (with the thought that if I start a fire, I can boil water)
Any tips on food, shelter, starting a fire, or other survival tips would be awesome. I'm a suburban guy so I don't get to experience the whole nature thing too often...
I would agree that an ax or hatchet would be much better than a machete for building a shelter and gathering firewood. When you do make a fire for the night or to cook on you will want hardwoods to burn hotter and longer, an ax will make it easier to cut the wood into more manageable pieces than a machete would. I would also take one good, sharp fixed blade knife over two, and take a multi-tool instead of the second knife.
You ought to know the different types of shelters that can be built before you go out. Lean-to, A-frame, etc.
I would suggest bringing a water bottle as well as your coffee can. Water doesn't travel well in a coffee can. And take a chemical treatment for the water as a back-up, in case you can't boil.
A reference book to edible plants in the area is a good idea, bad things can happen if you miss identify a plant and you are alone.
Probably the easiest edibles to get your hands on other than plants are insects and grubs. If you really want to catch small animals you should look up how to set snares and traps like the figure 4, and practice them before you go.
Think resourcefully while you out there and don't be to proud to come in early if you find that it is more than you're ready for.
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Guest Article – Mobile Survivalist
The guy with a backpack heading off into the hills to survive by hunting and camping has long ago been discredited and dismissed. But it was an idea that had certain advantages. The disadvantage of course was that you would starve, freeze, get eaten by wild animals or a combination of all three. The advantage was that you saved money not needing to buy a retreat ( no small thing at today’s land prices ), you really got away from the crowds and there was a lot less competition for the available food supplies.
Down in settled country you need to trade for food, defend your crops, join a protective association and in general deal with people that don’t have your best interests in mind. Of course I would rather deal with feral people than wild critters such as lions and tigers and bears. If for no other reason than that they are a lot smaller and have no claws. It takes a certain aptitude to survive out in the wilds. Don’t delude yourself into thinking you are Grizzly Adams if you ain’t. You must deal with nature on its terms, not yours.
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